Review | Maxxis Shorty 2.3 and 2.5 | Ride Report

Most of us hate switching tires. Aren’t we all looking for the one tire that’s a keeper? Whether you’re descending on dry, loose, blown-out corners as well as a bit of mud, Maxxis claims their Shorty handles it all well. They designed it it for the steep, technical monsters that are today’s World Cup downhill tracks, but if you’re looking for a lot of grip, you’ll love it on your home trail, too.

I love grip. In fact, I’m willing to take a hard hit in rolling resistance for a really grippy tire. I’d rather ride a tire that slows me down a bit but brings me plenty of traction. I’m also set it and forget it in approach – once a tire has seated tubeless, I’m rather reluctant to take it off just because of a change in weather. The thought of a tire switch conjures the image of a puddle of tubeless milk on the floor, which I seem to manage most of the time. I guess I’m not alone. Most of us can easily imagine something better to do than a changing a tubeless tire – like, being out, riding. Many of us are looking for the one tire that is an ideal generalist, a tire that does not fail us throughout the year. Maxxis claims their Shorty is that tire – and I’ve tested the 2.3 and 2.5 versions to find out.


Maxxis Shorty 4Maxxis Shorty

The Shorty is available in a variety of wheel sizes, widths, casings and compounds. For this review, I tested the Shorty in the 2.3 width I’ve been riding for a while, as well as the recently introduced 2.5 version, both in Maxxis’ lighter EXO Protection casing and grippy 3C MaxxTerra compound. In addition to EXO, Maxxis offers the tire in wire bead and, recently, a 27.5″ in their double down casing, which is halfway between EXO and DH.
I had the opportunity to run the tire on three bikes: On 26“, 650B / 27.5″ and on a 29er. My experience with setting up Maxxis tires tubeless has always been pleasant and hassle-free, and the Shorty was no exception: The tires seated properly on the first try, without any issues whatsoever.


One noticeable difference between the 2.3 and the 2.5 versions is that Maxxis increases the knob sizing along with the tire width. Maxxis actually tends to do this across their range of tires, but they don’t specifically advertise it, so it is sometimes overlooked. The difference is readily apparent if you look at both tires next to each other, and it is felt on the trail, with the bigger knobs providing more grip and increasing rolling resistance beyond what’s created by the size difference alone. Still, the general behavior will be pretty similar, and chance are, if you’ve liked the tire in one size, you’ll probably like it in the other, as well.

Maxxis Shorty and DHFMaxxis Shorty and DHR II

Wide Trail?

Recently, Maxxis introduced Wide Trail, a new designation for tires with a refined design to better fit wider rims. This caused some confusion, because you can now buy a DHF 2.5 in a standard and a Wide Trail version, and people have been wondering which one to get. Maxxis says the Wide Trail design is optimized for 35mm internal diameter rims, but there’s more to it: The regular 2.5 tire is actually the old version that was significantly smaller than its 2.5 designation. All the new, wide 2.4 and 2.5 tires are Wide Trail. The new tires are labeled as Wide Trail in the US, whereas in Europe, they were first introduced without the Wide Trail.


A Maxxis spokesperson said all the tires in all the markets will get a Wide Trail label soon, though. But what if you’re not running one of the new, wider wheel sets? Not a problem, I’d say, because what’s now, in comparison, a narrow rim, was considered a wide rim just a while ago. Unless you run a cross-country wheel set, you should be safe to take the new, Wide Trail versions. If you find the tire is too wide for your rim, feel free to send it to me. Most of the older Maxxis tires, such as the DHF, ran a bit on the narrow sidel, and Maxxis said you should not focus so much on the size (2.3, 2.5, etc.), but look at the ETRTO number. In case you didn’t know, but need to know, ETRTO stands for European Tire and Rim Technical Organisation, has its own website and wikipedia entry, which says it „exists to specify and harmonize sizes of rims and their associated pneumatic tryres“. It is all about being a standard, apparently, a term that draws a lot of heat in the bike industry – but this one won’t hurt.

The ETRTO standard designation consists of two numbers, the first being the approximate tire widths, the second being the approximate diameter (corresponding with the wheel size). For instance, the 26“ x 2.50 Shorty has an ETRTO designation of 63-559, which means it should run about 63mm wide (they’re the Wide Trail design). In contrast, the 26“ x 2.50 DHF are designated 55-559, indicating that they stem from the older design and will run less wide.

Ride Report: Any shortcomings of the Shorty?

With its wide knob spacing, the Shorty looks like a trimmed mud tire (hence its name). The spaced profile helps self-cleaning, and it comes as no surprise that the Shorty shines in wet conditions and on soft ground. We’ve had plenty of that until late spring, when the terrain started to dry. In the wet season, the Shorty’s big corner knobs worked wonders, replacing a mud tire in all but the most muddy segments. How would it perform in the dry season? I’ve had the 2.3 since last summer, so I have some experience in super dry terrain, as well, and I can say it does not disappoint at all.


Maxxis Shorty 2.3

Maxxis Shorty 2.5













Outstanding. The Shorty provides awesome amounts of grip. Even though the 2.3 version is a bit smaller than, for instance, a 2.35 Magic Mary, it offers plenty of traction, but the 2.5 takes it to another level. No matter how steep or rough your terrain, the Shorty never falls short. Its directional stability is excellent – to find more performance in this aspect, you’d have to look at tires with a different, less intermediate profile (such as a Minion DHF), but these tires quickly lose that advantage on soft ground or in wet conditions.


For an intermediate tire, cornering couldn’t be better. Both widths perform exceptionally well, but I felt railing corners was even more confident on the 2.5 version. The big knobs connect well with the ground, providing plenty of precise traction. Yes, there are dedicated downhill tires that are famous for cornering, but the Shorty is really close and offers much better performance in the wet compared to those, who tend to clog faster, failing you in the mud. Aggressive cornering on hardpack can cause the knobs to squirm a little, but not enough to cause any issues. The Shorty’s cornering capabilities actually surprised me a little, because I had expected the performance drop from, lets say, a DHF or DHR II tire to be more significant. Unless you’re racing or riding on a pure hardpack track, I don’t think you’ll lose much with the Shorty in the cornering department, but gain a lot in other areas. Moreover, the many trails consist of mixed conditions: Soft ground alternates with loose over hardpack, and small stretches of mud and the occasional rock surface. I found the Shorty to be a great overall choice for mixed terrain.


Despite its open profile, the Shorty brings braking performance that equals or exceeds a lot of tires. It helps that the Shorty’s knobs are fairly large, and in addition, every third row of center knobs is a horizontal block that supports braking. On the trail, this translates into a massive amount of consistent braking traction. Even in super steep terrain, I never wished for more braking power, and the tire always felt predictable and in control. In fact, it brings so much front braking traction, that the Shorty will even take an excellent braking rear tire (such as the DHR II) out for a dance. Especially the wider 2.5 with its massive knobs is sure-footed and steady when you throw out the anchor.


Even though the tire is not as comfortable as, lets say, the Magic Mary, the Shorty is stout. It gives you direct feedback from the ground and lets you know precisely where you’re at in terms of traction. This translates into stability, and I can’t report any punctures, burping or any other issues – the tire just worked.

Rolling Resistance

I’ve not used it as a rear tire, even though I may, come next winter. On the front, the Shorty’s rolling resistance is less than I had expected, especially with the 2.5’s meaty profile. I’d not hesitate to run a 2.3 on the rear and a 2.5 on the front for everyday riding. Unless your wet season lasts most of the year (think UK), I’d say you can probably get away with a lighter tire on the rear if you prefer to, but it is good to know the 2.3 Shorty will not drag you down as much as its knob pattern may suggest. Still, it is a big tire, and you’re not going to win any climbing competition with it.


In 650b, the Shorty weighs 865 grams for the 2.3 width (650b) and 965 grams for the 2.5 version. This is a more than respectable weight given its capabilities. I’d even say, for a front tire, the additional 100 grams for the 2.5 are well worth it unless you want to deliberately run less widths.


Maxxis Shorty


Terrain & Conditions

I had originally planned to ride the Shorty mostly from autumn to spring, and switch to a different tire once the trails start to dry, but an early dry spell has made me change my mind. The Shorty performed so well it really works as an all rounder. Of course, it shines in the soft and wet. On soft ground, you’d hardly find a better tire. It bites the ground, fighting for grip with the ferocity of a shepherd dog protecting its flock. It is very predictable and stable in the wet and light mud. The 3C MaxxTerra compound works well in winter, and only stiffens when temperatures are near or below freezing. At that point, most of us are more concerned about catching a cold than taking their tire to the edge of its ability. Whether it was the compound or the clever profile, not once did the tire fail me on roots, whether wet or dry. On loose over hard surfaces, it still provides plenty of confidence, losing grip late and regaining it quickly. Even on hardpack, it performs almost flawlessly and much better than its profile would indicate. Its sturdy side knobs are well-supported and take a lot of force to fold. On a mostly hardpack track, you’ll probably be faster and more confident on another tire, but the Shorty will not feel completely out of place, either.


Tim’s Take: The Shorty is awesome, and it is not going anywhere. I plan to keep it on the front all year, and I’d only consider mounting a summer specialist if its gets hot, dry and dusty or if I know the terrain will be mostly hardpack. If you’re looking for a tire that does everything well, has superior self-cleaning and offers outstanding traction in all conditions, the Shorty will not fall short.  


Related: Review | Continental Der Baron Projekt 2.4 | Ride Report 

Related: Review | Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.35 | Ride Report


Tech Information

Manufacturer: Maxxis
Model: Shorty
Wheel sizes: 26×2.3 – 26×2.5 (tested) – 27.5×2.3 – 27,5×2.5 (tested) – 29×2.3 (tested) – 29×2.5 (tested)
Weight: 925 (26×2.5) – 965 (27.5×2.5) – 910 (29×2.3) – 1025 (29×2.5) (weights according to manufacturer, EXO Protection, 3C MaxxTerra compound)
Price (MSRP): 69.50 € –  $78


    • neil barstow on September 20, 2016 at 16:02


    Hey Tim,
    Can I please ask, about rim width – was there a rim width you preferred for the WT 27.5 Shorty?

    Front use:
    I am sure it’d be lovely on a 34mm internal Derby up front – but how about a 25mm internal rim like the DT EX471, the Gwin rim ‘;~} ? maybe the 2.3 version is better on that size rim?

    Rear use:
    Was the Shorty (WT or 2.3 3C EXO) WAY better than the DHR2 2.3 3C EXO for the rear when it gets soft?

    If you feel it beats the DHR2 when the going starts to get soft (UK, soon) and I was using a Shorty on the back, feel I’d probably choose the 2.3 3C EXO (just for the rear), on a 25mm EX471 rim, unless it was terrain that needed the tough sidewalls of the DD version). As the 2.3 has bigger gaps in the tread it might clear a bit easier I guess.

    Thanks for the great informative reviews.

    1. Tim
      • Tim on September 20, 2016 at 18:37
      • Author


      Hi Neil,

      thanks! I tested these tires on rims varying from 25mm to 30mm width (internal diameter). I much preferred the 30mm ID, but I’d say a 2.5 Maxxis (Shorty or DHF) works on a 25mm ID rim, as well. For front use, I’d absolutely go 2.5 Shorty.

      Rear use: Yes, I found the Shorty to be way better than the DHR 2 in soft conditions. The DHR 2 is a great tire, both front and rear, it works all year round, especially as a rear, and did not let me down in soft conditions. But as conditions get softer, it becomes more apparent that the Shorty is on another level. I’m not a semi slick guy, I like a really grippy rear tire, and I’m willing to pay the price on the climbs – if you’re like me, then the Shorty is an outstanding choice. Nonetheless, I’d prefer the Shorty 2.3 on the rear to the 2.5. The 2.5 is a beast, but not a very pedal-friendly beast.

      In terms of compound, 3C MaxxTerra is just fine on the rear, in my opinion. Some people claim that Dual Compound rolls noticeably better, but I couldn’t find any significant difference that would be worth any loss in traction, and I consider myself picky. I haven’t found the need to swap to DoubleDown, which adds a bit of weight (~200g, and only on the 2.5 – the 2.3 Shorty is EXO only).

      The combination of Shorty 2.5 (front) and Shorty 2.3 (rear) is a great choice. It excels in soft conditions, but will work throughout the year, even in summer unless the ground is more hardback than forest – in which case a DHF will be the better choice (review upcoming).

    • Neil Barstow on September 21, 2016 at 08:33


    Hi Tim,
    Perfect advice and exactly what I was thinking. Thanks lots for taking the time.
    These truly are great reviews, I particularly like how you tabulate and illustrate each tyres characteristics in the same way across tests of different models. A bit more rim info would make them perfect ;-).
    This Winter I think I’ll go with your advice and for a second Shorty, the 3C WT upfront, transferring the 2.3 to the rear DT417 from the (front) Derby (34mm internal) rim I was testing it on.

    Unless – I guess one other option is Shorty front Baron rear? I did find that combo a bit slidey at the rear on clay mud this Spring in my local South Downs forest which gets super greasy. The Baron is a touch more reinforced, though, perhaps? Nice to have if the ground was “Alpine” given that some report Maxxis EXO tyres can cut easily.
    I have the tested the 2.3 3C Maxterra Shorty rear on. 25 int rim and I LOVED the traction on muddy climbs, and it looks so MOTO, as you mention its not real draggy either. I didn’t get to try it on the clay, but I will this Autumn, which appears to be coming soon.
    Thanks man

    1. Tim
      • Tim on September 21, 2016 at 12:43
      • Author


      Hi Neil,

      thanks, you’re welcome. I’d say the Baron has a slight edge in mud, and a big edge when it gets cold, and its casing is a little stronger. The Shorty is more of an all-round tire for soft conditions, and very easy to set up tubeless. I found the 2.4 Baron runs about as wide as the 2.3 Shorty.

    • Neil Barstow on September 21, 2016 at 11:40


    Maxxgrip for the front? overkill for forest trails perhaps?

    1. Tim
      • Tim on September 21, 2016 at 12:50
      • Author


      Compound-wise, absolutely not, I love MaxxGrip on the front. Running a 2.5 means rolling resistance is already a low priority, and I don’t want to compromise on the compound. On DHF it comes on the EXO casing, but on the Shorty (and the DHR2), it will require going DoubleDown or wire bead.

    • Neil Barstow on September 21, 2016 at 15:53


    Hi Tim,
    thanks lots,
    I’m going to try the MaxTerra as the Double Down casing would be another step towards pain on the pedal ups, thanks for the advice. neil

    • Neil on September 23, 2016 at 22:11


    Hi Tim
    In the end I ordered both conpounds, will give feedback.

    • Chris on October 1, 2016 at 02:17


    Hi Tim,
    Great review with fantastic detail.
    Like you, I prefer grip over weight any day but favour front grip more. My personal preference is to lighten up the rear to allow for a bit more acceleration. This means finding a tyre that will still perform well which sounds like from your review a 2.3 Maxxterra could fit the bill :-)
    I see you were pretty impressed with the performance of the Maxxterra versions over roots. I can only presume the Maxxgrip versions would be even more confident inspiring in this situation?
    Did you test the Maxxgrip version?
    I am seriously thinking of going with a 2.5 Maxxgrip DD on the front with a 2.3 Maxxterra on the rear.
    What are your thoughts on how this combo might perform over a damp root section? Ala Forest of Dean.
    Also, What tyre pressure were you running these on when you tested them?
    Apologies for all the questions
    Cheers Chris

    1. Tim
      • Tim on October 6, 2016 at 09:20
      • Author


      Thanks, Chris. We’re in the same boat regarding front grip over rear grip. I didn’t run MaxxGrip on the Shorty, but have tested both MaxxGrip on DHF and SuperTacky on DHR II – and I’d take these over 3C MaxxTerra on the front. I think running 2.5 Shorty MaxxGrip on the front and a 2.3 Shorty 3C MaxxTerra on the rear will be amazing and work very well until winter, when the Maxxis compounds tend to harden below 5° C / 40° F. If you’re riding a lot when it is colder than that, you may prefer a Baron / Baron or Mudking / Baron combination.

    • Neil Barstow on October 6, 2016 at 08:43


    Hi Tim, Hi Chris,
    I like grip too.

    Nowadays my go to tyres (all tubeless) are Mavic Charge XL Pro (F) and Mavic Quest XL Pro (R) for the dry
    Charge can take a bit of wet too but not so much the Quest.
    Maxxis Shorty 2.5 WT maxxterra (F on a 34mm int rim) DHR2 2.3 EXO maxxterra (R) for damp, OK in dry too
    Maxxis Shorty 2.5 WT maxxterra (F on a 34mm int rim) Shorty 2.3 EXO maxxterra (R) for wet
    The 2.5WT Maxxgrip DD will go on the front for larey trails, wet and damp, maybe the Mary TS upfront for drier days.

    The DHR2 is an amazing rear tyre not hard to pedal; grip, braking and traction all excellent.

    I have a pal who lives at FOD, he tells me the guys at pedalabikeaway (the trailcentre shop) and the locals like Shortys (and also the Spesh Hillbilly upfront).
    As it’s not real deep sticky clay mud, I like it there too. I think it will clog and “grow” in my local South Downs clay, that clay is depressing to ride in.

    I tested the Shorty 2.3 Maxterra on the back at FOD a few months ago and really loved it on all the trails: DH, natural “enduro” and hardpack “trailcentre” stuff, it didn’t tear, although I hear the EXO casing can be a little fragile. Not an Alpine choice then.
    That trip I had a Magic Mary on the front, Trailstar. It was dry but it had been wet.

    The rear Shorty didn’t seem to drag and the braking and cornering was great and hook up on wet climbs was amazing. My Geometron XL is ace on the climbs, traction bigtime.
    So I’ll be sticking with the Maxxterra 2.3 Shorty (and the DHR2) on the back as long as the casings hold up. I would like a DoubleDown casing 2.3 Maxxterra back there, as the rear is the tyre that gets damaged in rocks more often, but they don’t make one. Strange.

    27.5X2.50WT 63-584 120 FOLDABLE 1,170 3C MAXX GRIP 50 3C/TR/DD Black
    27.5X2.50WT 63-584 60 FOLDABLE 965 3C MAXX TERRA 50 3C/EXO/TR Black
    27.5X2.30 58-584 60 FOLDABLE 865 3C MAXX TERRA 60 3C/EXO/TR Black
    27.5X2.30 58-584 60 FOLDABLE 815 3C MAXX TERRA 60 3C/TR Black

    I reckon the Maxxgrip Shorty (2.5WT) will be great upfront when it’s loose /wet and especially for uplift days. Also I feel the EXO casing would be fine upfront too and possibly a little less harsh on the hands, but it’s not available.
    So for uplift, I have a maxxgrip 2.5 WT on a DT 471 (Gwinns “race tyre-less” rim ;-).

    I’ve mounted up both a 2.5WT Maxxterra EXO and a 2.3 Maxxterra EXO on a Derby (34mm internal) and done some measuring after 12 hours.
    2.5WT Maxxterra, EXO – casing width 61.5 mm, tread width (widest tread) 63.2 mm chart = ERTRO 63
    2.3 Maxxterra, EXO – casing width 61.2 mm, tread width (widest tread) 60.5 mm chart = ERTRO 59

    SO, in my test it seems like the casing on 2.3 and 2.5 is near enough the same, but those reports stating that the WT treads have moved inwards (which seemed illogical when designed for a wide rim that pushes the casing out) are possibly incorrect.
    Of course it’s hardly scientific as I just measured one pair of tyres. maybe its right that as the knobs have got bigger on the WT, and, thus, the gaps smaller, it was just a visual thing making folk think the treads had tightened up – moved inwards.

    The 2.5 WT Maxxterra, EXO on the wide rim at 16psi is amazing in my local woods. A touch better at carving the forest floor than the 2.3, I think. it’s subtle. Being able to run such low pressure is ace on roots.

    I am saving the 2.5WT Maxxgrip DoubleDown upfront (on the DT 471) for Forest of Dean DH and similar trails, as it’s soft and heavy. And I agree Chris that Maxxgrip HAS to be better on roots, (it might have that supertacky Swampthing feel, but not the drag I hope) I’d also expect the DD casing to give better damping. Hope so.

    Of course, for full on Alpine it’s likely the 2.4 wire bead in maxxgrip rear and supertacky front. Wow, supertacky, even more grip.

    happy trails guys

    • Chris on October 15, 2016 at 07:20


    Hi Tim and Neil,
    I went for the 27.5 X 2.50WT 3C MAXX GRIP 3C/TR/DD up front and the 27.5 X 2.30 3C MAXX TERRA 3C/EXO/TR on the rear. Running both tubeless on Roval Traverse 29mm rims and at 25psi on my Enduro Elite. I also tried a Nobby Nic 3.0 on the front on the same rim at 15psi.

    Tim, what pressures did you run on your set up?

    Neil, 16psi seems a bit low for me unless using a Plus tyre (Scared of denting my rims) but I will give it a go as I am always looking for good advice and happy to try something new. Were you running 16psi front and rear?

    I have only gone that low with my Nobby Nic Trailstar 3.0 15psi which I had on the front on a couple of the runs detailed below.

    I am going to the FOD Mini Enduro this weekend so for a bit of experimentation and training for this event over the last 10 days I have completed a number of runs on one of my local ‘natural’ trails which takes about 2 minutes to complete. It is a run which was built by one of the locals here in Brechfa a number of years ago. ‘Old but not forgotten’ on Strava :-). It is tight single track going down the side of one of the many hills we have in the Brechfa forest. It has a few steep sections, a couple of really tight switchbacks, with odd very small sections of roots here and there and an off camber rooty section near the end. Not a lot of slate on this trail as it runs through the very established forest and is very soft in places due to leaf mulch.

    The first run I did was after a very big overnight downpour. The tyres hooked up amazing well and I was very impressed with the grip over all sections of the run even in the very damp conditions. So in damp conditions this set up is very confident inspiring.
    Over the remaining days it stayed dry which meant the run dried up very quickly and confidence grew even more and all I can say is these tyres are very good. In one section I was able to take a completely different line using a steep off camber straight line rather than using the existing drop down round the corner line :-). I do not profess to be a good rider but this set up and grip gave me the confidence to try something new so thank you Tim, your advice has allowed me to push my boundries.

    Now to the Nobby Nic 3.0. Trailstar. This really put a spanner in the works for me. Same run, same amount of grip, better braking and very confident inspiring over the really rough stuff and rooty sections. It is like have a downhill front end on your trail bike. It really is point and shoot. The only thing that caught me out was the off camber ‘straight’ section I mentioned above. I came off….. but that could have been down to me feeling like superman and going too fast.

    I will be taking 2 front wheels with me to the FoD mini Enduro this weekend and will let you know how I get on.

    Neil, thanks for your detailed info above it has really got me thinking and I will be trying some very low pressures this weekend in the practise sessions.

    • Neil Barstow on December 23, 2016 at 15:15


    Hi Chris,

    Hipe the Enduro went well, I like FOD too.

    Sorry I missed your message earlier. if you tried the NN at FOD I hope the sidewalls survived!
    I’d love to know how you got on with that NN at FOD.

    I am now (on the Shortys 2.5 F maxxterra 34 internal rim, 2.35R maxxterra 25 internal rim) at [front only]: in the dry generally 18, in the wet maybe even 16 or 15, in the dry at too-low pressures it can ping off roots.
    Rear is more like 28, maybe 26 wet (slower/less side grip to fold a soft tyre)
    I didn’t try my maxxgrip Shorty 24 internal rim (all I had) much yet but on an initial rooty test it was lovely.

    Rear, when less wet I like to use a Maxxterra DHR2 2.35

    You say NN 3 gives better braking that a Shorty Maxxgrip upfront, thats amazing. I bet it rolls nice too. Was that at 15psi?

    If you like a bit less tread the Mavic Charge XL is amazing too.

    Chris Porter who designed my bike rides the same Geometron at FOD and Cwmcarn on MM front (TS) Rock Razor TS rear all year!
    That RR rear is scary tho if you need to brake much.

    • Neil Barstow on December 23, 2016 at 15:29


    Hey Tim,

    you know how much I appreciate your reviews man.

    Is there a way to subscribe to a conversation / thread here (or can you maybe activate that), you’ll see above that Chris asked me a question and I missed it. Hope he enjoyed that Enduro and the NN3 help up in the rocks at FOD

    • Neil Barstow on December 27, 2016 at 08:58


    Hey Tim,
    I hope you’re having a good family Christmas and getting some time to go out riding.
    So –
    I realise your blog providers may not offer a “subscribe to thread@ option –
    I found a workaround (in the absence of the option to subscribe to a thread – like they offer on mtbr) to let me know when the page has been updated. I simply register the page with the changedetection service and then I get a report like this to tell me what’s changed:
    And a link to the changed page like this:
    That 2nd link tells me where to go but it’s not working completely as an error comes up. Still, it’s an ok workaround.

    Happy trails guys

    • Neil Barstow on January 3, 2017 at 17:55


    Hey Tim,
    well, isn’t working as well as it might as you can see if you click the link above. However it DOES alert to a page having changed and you can then know it’s an idea to go check it out.
    Given, though that my workaround is flaky, maybe it IS possible to activate the option to “subscribe to e thread” in the blog interface you use?
    thanks lots for al the sterling info
    I am LOVING those same Shortys you’re using now, 2.5WT F, 2.3 R both currently Maxxterra

    1. Tim
      • Tim on January 3, 2017 at 20:21
      • Author


      Neil, glad you’re enjoying the Shortys – great tire. I’ve found a way to include comment subscription – let me know how this works out for you. I’m also looking for a thread subscription tool.

    • Neil Barstow on January 4, 2017 at 17:57


    Yay thanks Tim


    • Sun on March 2, 2017 at 00:59


    Really dug the review. I wanted an opinion specific to my conditions if possible?

    I don’t ride in mud or wet at all if I can help it. Most of my riding is a bit of dusty hardpack covered in lots of rocks. All the steep sections, both up and down, are littered in rocks. I have enjoyed my time on my current DHF 2.5 WT 29 x 2.5 but I damaged all the side knobs a lot after about 100 miles of use and the traction is pretty gone. I think the damage mostly occurred riding on rocky cheese grater off-cambers.

    The question I have is, would I be better off with the same DHF up front I have been running or instead try out the Shorty 2.5″ (which is darn near impossible to find I might add)? The knobs on the Shorty look like the supports might prevent the tearing that occurred on my DHF but I’m mostly concerned with performance.

    The plan for the rear was to place a the DHF 2.5 on the rear, or stick with another DHRII 2.4 which has served me well and has no unusual wear (i.e. tears) at all after 100 miles but is just worn down.


    PS. My favorite tires on my old 27.5″ bike were the WTB Convict 2.5 & Breakout 2.5. I’d kill for that set up on my 29er!

    1. Tim
      • Tim on March 3, 2017 at 16:38
      • Author


      Thanks. The Shorty is very good in loose over hardpack, and I’d say give it a try – the 2.5 version is an outstanding front tire for a huge range of conditions, and except for pure hardpack, it works pretty well everywhere. I can’t really predict the corner knob wear, since that depends a lot on riding style and terrain, but it can also be a compound issue. In any case, Maxxis are generally known as long-lasting, and the Shorty shouldn’t wear any worse than the DHF. Some terrain can be hard on tire, but 100 miles still seems to be a short ride time to run a Maxxis tire down (perhaps your DHF was a bad sample). I’d not hesitate to use the DHF on the rear, as long as it still has enough traction for you. The Convict is similar to the DHR II, with great braking, but I’d say it is hard to find a tire that beats a Minion at cornering.

        • Sun on March 4, 2017 at 16:18


        Tim, thanks for your input.

        I have ordered a 2.5 Shortie for the front of my Yeti 5.5 and the DHF 2.5 for the rear (which may not even fit).

        Like you, I value traction over outright speed in the smooth sections. I find I’m actually faster overall when I go for the traction and I certainly have more fun.

        The Shorty 2.5 is just not available in the states unless you order it from the Maxxis website, which is really pricey. But I came across a German website that stocked the tires I wanted and could ship them at a very reasonable price. Paid the same price for 2 tires from Germany, as 1 Shorty was going to cost me here locally so it all worked out.

        Thanks again.

        1. Tim
          • Tim on March 4, 2017 at 16:33
          • Author


          You’re welcome. Let me know how the combination works out for you.

    • Sun on March 11, 2017 at 15:26


    1st ride on the Shorty 2.5 showed a significant traction improvement over my previous DHF 2.5. No downside at all in any conditions that I care about, that I can tell at this time.
    Very pleased so far.

    • Mag.arch. Nikolaus Schullerer-Seimayr on May 31, 2017 at 09:25


    Have yout tested DHF 2,5 WT on the rear?
    In the enduro mtb mag this combination was recommended by maxxis and was best tire combination in the test.

    I will change from shorty 2,3 – dhr2 2,3 to Shorty 2,5 – dhf 2,5

    1. Tim
      • Tim on May 31, 2017 at 09:35
      • Author


      Thanks for your comment. I actually disagree with the test or the conclusion somewhat, and here’s why: I prefer the DHR II 2.4 to the DHF in most aspects (and often even as a front tire). DHF’s rolling resistance is a bit lower, but that doesn’t matter much to me when I’m running a 2.4 or 2.5. But DHR II’s braking traction is so much better, and a rear tire breaks away much faster. I’ve tried the DHF on the rear, but quickly turned back to DHR II instead.

      Even with the differences noted, both are Minions and share a lot of design elements. I can absolutely understand people running DHR II front (I think it is a superb front tire), and DHF rear (for rolling resistance) – but I prefer the DHR II’s braking traction in steep sections, so I’d usually prefer DHR IIs on both wheels.

      Shorty is a terrific tire, really. It is my favorite front tire currently, and I’m running it on almost all my bikes/setups, and find it performs very well in the dry, too. For a wet season tire combination, I’ve been on a pure Shorty setup, 2.5 front and 2.3 rear – perfect for those conditions. Outside wet season, I’m usually running DHR II 2.4 on the rear. If I’d ever find that the DHR II’s rolling resistance is too high, I’d go smaller in the rear (2.3) or opt for another design altogether (such as the Aggressor tire), instead of choosing DHF.

        • Mag.arch. Nikolaus Schullerer-Seimayr on May 31, 2017 at 11:29


        Thx for your comment. I already had the dhr2 in the back and i was very happy with it. But iam always looking for new tire combinations to test them out. So i will give the dhf in dual a try and will see how it performes. If iam not happy with it i will switch back to dhr2. As i am also riding lots of longer climbs maybe the better rolling resistance is what i am looking for.
        but thx for your quick respond.

        1. Tim
          • Tim on May 31, 2017 at 12:08
          • Author


          You’re welcome. I love trying new tires, too. Even though I prefer the DHR II, the DHF is by no means a bad rear tire – it’s a Minion, after all.
          If you’re looking for better rolling resistance, consider going 2.3.

    • Neil B on May 31, 2017 at 11:34


    Hey Tim.
    Interesting you don’t get on with the DHF. I’ve been enjoying Noahs WT & DHF reviews on blistergear. He loves the DHF. But he is in CA to be fair.
    Might you say what it is you don’t like
    About DHF’S. – I’d be really interested.
    Was just about to get a 2.3 for the rear, for a touch less drag than the DHRII I’ve been running since it dried up here in the U.K..
    What have I tried?
    The Mavic Quest Pro XL 2.4 is ok at the back and rolls great, but perhaps not enough edges for off camber loose. Bit more XC than XXXC perhaps. Spesh Slaughter and Schwalbe Razor (TS) roll down well and will corner too, but the braking is SO scary. (And Razor drags on fire road climbs).
    Baron Projekt is pretty nice on the back but can go wobbly (that lovely Conti feature). Might produce a tad more drag than DHR also.
    Thanks for the detailed reviews Tim.

    1. Tim
      • Tim on May 31, 2017 at 12:27
      • Author


      Hi Neil, thanks for your comment. Yes, Noah does great reviews, but yes, he’s in California, and I guess he’d be looking for a different profile than you and me, i.e. less use of Shorty and similar tires – and consequently I don’t see much sense reviewing a Minion Semislick, for instance – Once they find some cornering bite, they are doing fine, but oh yes, I totally agree with you that braking can be scary on semi slicks, especially straight-line braking in steep sections. Climbing suffers, as well, plus they tend to clog really fast even on smaller soft ground sections. Oh, and they self-clean really bad. That’s why I see little use for them.

      But from what I read, he Noah loves the DHR II, and I think we share a lot of the reasons why. I’d also say whoever likes the DHF will enjoy the DHR II and vice versa, because they are similar in many aspects. I also think we all agree that the front and rear designations are irrelevant: The DHF can be a great rear tire, and the DHR II can be a great front tire. I know some riders who would not even care which one they’d ride. Then again, there are some key differences, and whoever looks into tire selection in detail will likely prefer one or the other. For my riding, the DHR II outperforms the DHF in most aspects: I enjoy the DHR IIs braking, and I don’t need the rolling resistance benefit of the DHF.

      The Baron is really nice on the rear in the wet season, but yes it has more drag than both Minions. For trail riding in the “dryer” season, on the rear, I’d also agree a 2.3 has a lot less drag than a 2.4 or 2.5 (because of the width, but even more so because the knobs get substantially bigger on the larger Maxxis tires). On my trail bike, I’m currently running a 2.3 Aggressor on the rear and really like it (review coming).

    • Neil B on May 31, 2017 at 12:28



    You wrote
    “I prefer the DHR II 2.4 to the DHF in most aspects (and often even as a front tire). DHF’s rolling resistance is a bit lower, but that doesn’t matter much to me when I’m running a 2.4 or 2.5. But DHR II’s braking traction is so much better, and a rear tire breaks away much faster. I’ve tried the DHF on the rear, but quickly turned back to DHR II instead.”

    So it’s all about the braking?
    The DHR does brake great. And you’re right the rear loses traction easily.
    I rather liked Shorty 2.3 (3C Maxxterra) rear and Mary front. Shorty climbs better than DHRII when it’s wet.
    The Mary does lose to the 2.5 shorty in 3C MaxxT or in MaxxGrip upfront a setup that would take some beating.
    But it’s dry now. (I hope)

    Back to the rear.
    Your opinion. DHRII beats DHF because of braking.
    And that’s the whole story?
    Doesn’t DHF have better ability to hold a line / directional stability (why – no widecentre knobs)?

    You’re not into those shaved tyres with edge knobs? Slaughter/ razor / Minion SS? Braking comes up short again I guess. Even more so than DHR.


    1. Tim
      • Tim on May 31, 2017 at 12:51
      • Author


      Hi Neil, yes, with DHR II vs. DHF it is mostly about the braking for me. It is not the whole story, of course. DHF has better directional stability, and there certainly are situations in which I’d prefer a 2.5 DHF over a 2.4 DHR II on the FRONT. But never on the rear.

      2.5 DHF is a slight bit wider than the 2.4 DHR II, and apart from being better rolling resistance, it has slight edge in cornering bite plus an edge in directional stability. There are courses I’d love to run a DHF, but most of the time, the difference is not worth the time taking the DHR II down and putting the DHF on (plus the tubeless liquid puddle on the floor I tend to leave). And as a default tire, I prefer the DHR II to the DHF on both ends.

      I totally agree that the Shorty is better in almost every aspect (except rolling resistance and on certain conditions, i.e. lots of hardpack). If we’re talking soft ground or wet conditions, Shorty is my favorite tire. The DHR II is not really that good of a wet conditions tire, in my opinion, and like you, that caused me to run a 2.3 Shorty in the rear most of autumn, winter and spring. I had the 2.5 Shorty in the front, and I prefer it to the Magic Mary, too.

      I find little use for semi slicks, mostly because I find they are one trick ponies – they do one thing (or rather a few things) really well, but once conditions are different, they are caught on the wrong foot. Descending can be really fun as long as you’re riding in their comfort zone, but once outside, it can get ugly real quick. Moreover, most of the time, I earn my descents and climb not only fire roads but trails, too, and I find them a pain climbing steeper sections, and it does not even have to have any trace of mud for that.

    • neilB on May 31, 2017 at 15:16


    Hi Tim
    thanks for the detailed explanation.
    the DHRII 2.3 is staying on for trail riding. [mostly with the Mavic Charge ProXL upfront).

    “DH” style outings (like F.O.D.) I’ll be back on the Shorty or DHR 2.3 (MxTerra3C) rear and Shorty 2.5 (MxGrip)front

    Winter trails, like you: Shorty 2.3 (MxTerra3C) rear and 2.5 (MxTerra)front
    I just love the Shortys, the other advantage, they look “proper moto” ‘;~}

    My slightly wobbly Conti Baron Projekt 2.4 is staying on the garage hook with the MaryTS for now

    enjoy your riding

    • neilB on June 12, 2017 at 11:42


    Hey Tim,
    the DHRII Mxterra is doing OK, but it will spin on a greasy climb a LOT sooner than a Shorty Mxterra (obviously)
    SO – we both love Shortys.
    But how about a faster rear Shorty?
    Hmm, does this idea make sense? a clever EWS mechanic inspiration?
    time 2:20 in:
    Myself, I might leave the edge knobs full size though.
    Here’s a screenshot:
    Once the edges are off mine and performance deteriorates I reckon it might be worth a shot.
    love to know what you think Tim?
    are you a tyre cutter?

    1. Tim
      • Tim on June 16, 2017 at 08:37
      • Author


      Hi Neil, yes, Shorty is superb. I has a lot more grip than the DHR II – often, people say the DHR II is fine for year-round riding, but I find that it clogs a little too fast for any serious soft ground / autumn / winter riding.

      I’m not a tire cutter, though. I’ve seen a lot of DH WC bikes with cut tires, but for my riding, I’d rather just choose a tire that suits my needs and leave it as is. I don’t need the faster rolling, and take grip over rolling resistance. When I find I don’t need the full Shorty, such as in dry spring / summer, I mount a different tire altogether.

    • neilB on June 12, 2017 at 11:56


    hmm, but was that on Robin Wallner’s bike? “The greasy start to stage three cost Robin Wallner who lost time to the rest of the top five – confidence was the key to this stage.”
    to be fair I don’t suppose we can expect greasy grip after cutting!

    1. Tim
      • Tim on June 16, 2017 at 08:42
      • Author


      Yes, I think that was Robin Wallner referring to his cut Shorty. And why mess with such a terrific tire?

    • Sun on June 16, 2017 at 13:14


    I like the Shorty 2.5 a great deal on the front of my Yeti 5.5. I also am running the DHF 2.5 on the rear and I find the rolling resistance is just too much for my taste. It does some things better than the DHRII, but other things less so. Overall I preferred the DHRII as a rear tire.

    The Aggressor 29 x 2.5 is being released any week now so I’m holding out for that as a rear tire.

    1. Tim
      • Tim on June 17, 2017 at 15:38
      • Author


      Hi Sun, I’d say in terms of rolling resistance as a rear tire, DHF and DHR II are on par – and I found DHF rolling a little easier than a same-size DHR II, actually. Aggressor should be a great rear tire choice for you, unless you ride in a lot of mud / soft ground.

    • Cris on July 1, 2017 at 07:08


    Hi Tim. Great review! Just found out your site and loving the content, keep up the good work!

    I’ve been running two Magic Mary 2.35″ Supergravity Trailstar both front and rear for one year on my Giant Trance. Heavy as hell and rolling resistance was on the horrible side, but as an unexperienced rider they gave me lots of confidence and I developed quite some strength in the process too!

    I switched to an Aggressor 2.3 /f and an Ardent 2.25 /r for my first marathon race. Much faster combo (my gold medal proved that ;-)) but now I’m missing the grip, confidence and plush ride I had before, so I’m thinking about moving the Aggressor to the rear and get a Shorty 2.5 WT for the front.

    How’s your experience with the Aggressor so far? My trails are mostly small rocks and loose gravel over hard in N/E Italy.

    Also, I’m wondering if my 23 mm (internal) Mavic rims are a bit on the narrow side for a WT, what do you think?

    1. Tim
      • Tim on July 1, 2017 at 09:21
      • Author


      Thanks, Cris, for the praise and congrats to winning the marathon race. I’d rather run a heavier tire that provides a lot of grip and live with the rolling resistance – but because I’m also on a lot of shorter rides (mostly three hours or less) I actually appreciate a slower rolling tire: First and foremost, it lets me have more fun on the descents, and secondly, it also helps me get more workout in the same amount of time on the climbs. So I’d always go for a Shorty / Minion / Magic Mary type of tire on the front, but that’s for my riding (downhill, enduro, aggressive trail), and the Aggressor would always be a rear tire for me.

      For a marathon, however, you obviously need a fast-rolling tire. Personally, I can’t come to terms with the lighter, classic XC / marathon tires (think Racing Ralph, Rocket Ron, Renegade, and so on), I’d always want a bit more grip. So for marathon riding, I’d strongly recommend the Aggressor as a front, unless you’re in wet conditions. I think over a few rides, you’ll get used to it and your confidence level will adjust. Just keep on riding your race tire combination in training and on terrain that is on par or preferably more challenging than the race course. Even though a meaty tire on the front doesn’t affect your rolling resistance as much as on the rear, I’d say if you have podium aspirations in your category, in a marathon race, you’ll be at a disadvantage with a Shorty. You might try going tubeless (if you’re not already doing it) and lowering the tire pressure a bit to increase grip.

      I’m really liking the Aggressor, and it works very well for the terrain / conditions you describe. It is an excellent tire for dry conditions, and I’ll be running it as a rear tire throughout the summer months.

      For WT (wide trail) tires, I’d suggest at least 25mm ID rims, with the sweet spot around 30mm ID. 23mm ID are on the narrow side, but the 2mm won’t make them unrideable. Try a wide rim (~30mm) and I’d say you’ll immediately notice a difference.

        • Cris on July 1, 2017 at 10:15


        Thanks for the reply and the congrats, Tim. Actually, that marathon was just an experiment. Should I get serious about those things, I will buy a used XC bike. But 95% of the time I’m doing trail riding that’s why I want to switch back to a more aggressive setup. We’re on the same page about meaty tires, I love grip especially on the front and I value a harder ride because I don’t have much time to ride and I need it to be intense. I will give the Shorty 2.5 WT a try and look into wider rims. Looking forward to your Aggressor review! Oh and BTW I’m already on tubeless and no way I’m going back to tubes, ever 😉

    • Sun on July 1, 2017 at 13:38


    I just pulled off a DHF 2.5 on the rear and installed a Schwalbe Hans Dampf Addix speedgrip. They don’t offer a gravity casing at this time so I just took the risk and ordered their standard snakeskin. It is a dramatically faster tired than the DHF. It has a little bit less Traction in a few situations but I generally have a lot more momentum and speed so it was a good trade-off for me. Tire measures 2.45 after about 2 days on a 29mm ID wheels.
    I’m still running the shorty 2.5 up front and I see no reason to change.

    You know this is off topic, but in the three years I’ve been riding mountain bikes I’ve always felt like the front ends pushed on all mountain bikes whenever I try to sweep smoothly through arching terms. And I started thinking back to my KTM dirt bike that had adjustable triple clamp offset. And out of curiosity I swapped it to the other offset and that dirt bike had the exact same sensation where the front end didn’t want to stay put. It was like no matter how smooth you were the front end always let go before the rear end. That’s how I think mountain bikes feel.
    Somebody really needs to offer adjustable offset forks for mountain bikes in my opinion.

      • neil barstow on August 7, 2017 at 16:25


      Hey Sun,
      you should contact Chris Porter or Paul at Mojo Suspension if you are in the UK. Chris has experimented with different fork offsets and has me on a 26″ crown / steerer on my Fox 36 [on a 650B bike with a 62 head angle].
      Its amazing the way the front end grips.
      So you CAN experiment within reason, by swopping crown / steerer units. A UK journalist did an article about thais in collaboration with Mojo.

    • free on August 7, 2017 at 10:10


    Hallo! Great reviews mate :)

    I want to have a new rear tyre.

    I am thinking of the aggressor. Read that you have ridden it quite a lot.

    Now i am running dhr2 2.3 dual, but want something faster rolling without sacrificing much grip.

    Can you make a comparison between the 2?

    How do they compare in:

    -grip in dry
    -grip in wet
    -dimensions (width-height)


    • Martin on September 8, 2017 at 04:55



    I´m thinking about to use a 2,5 shorty in the front. But the rim on the front only got a innerwidth of (roundabout) 22 mm. Do you think there will be a Problem?

    *sry, english is not my first language…

    • neil barstow on February 14, 2018 at 18:27


    HI, I use the 2.5 maxxterra Shorty WT 2.5 on a 25m rim [EX471 and it seems fine.
    It COULD, I suppose, be a touch rounder than it would be on a 30mm rim, of course, but it works very well IMO.

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